RESIDENCY

REVOLT IN RUINS

It had been a long slumber stay at home that had forced me to travel and on top of my ‘to do’ list in Lucknow was the visit to The Residency. For those who are not familiar with it, The Residency is a township built by the Nawabs of Awadh as a residential facility for the British General, who was a representative in the Court of the Nawabs and others, who served the Queen as well, after the capital of Awadh shifted from Faizabad to Lucknow. Its construction was commenced by Nawab Asafuddaula in 1775 A.D. and was completed under the supervision of Nawab Sa’adat Ali Khan in 1800 A.D., additions were made later as well. The Residency narrates some of the very important chapters of our history since it a symbol of our first fight for independence, ‘the Siege of Lucknow’.

A Rs.5 ticket seemed menial for the elaborate history the place oozes, but being unemployed at present, I am glad. As I walked towards the small door opening, embedded inside an enormous gate, my imagination painted a million pictures for me and when I entered, I wasn’t let down either. Now, if you are expecting a scene out of some Hollywood movie depicting a post war USSR ghost town whose name you can’t pronounce or spell, where the only inhabitants are dogs and squirrels, where the mist is crawling out of every opening of the remains and debris, and your thoughts are the only words audible; I would suggest you visit The Residency during harsh Lucknow winters when the fog engulfs the city for most part of the day. So one such fine winter morning it was when I entered and was suddenly exposed to lots of ruined structures, something I don’t understand to the date why, architects crave for.

The Residency is made on a raised natural mound, which distinguishes it from the surrounding development, for gaining a vantage point during an attack. The structures inside the complex are generally enormous in size and made using thin bricks, which not only provide it with a beautiful texture, but also breaks down the geometry with its linear and non continuous nature. The Banquet Hall, built by Nawaab Sa’adat Ali Khan is a fine example of this. Some of the houses also sport a plaster, which for most part has been eroded, but has fortunately left mysterious Ionic capitals, to spark your imagination among the ruins. For those who have not seen the Indian Institute of Management-Ahmedabad, this might just offer them a brief lesson on the Arch Construction techniques, since the exposed brick arches show the making of several kinds of Arches in a rudimentary, yet neat manner. It is interesting to see, and at times imagine from the ruins, a unique amalgamation of Islamic Architecture and construction techniques meeting the English aspiration, of that period. Not only the design of buildings, but the campus, which apart from various facilities, has a Mosque, Church and two cemeteries of different character in the same compound, a harmonious composition in planning. Thus, The Residency could also be considered as an initial step towards Indo-Saracenic Revival.

As the fog cleared its way for a warm winter sun, walking around the campus I lost the sense of period I belong to. It was not just the buildings, but minute details like the Iron benches, lamp post and signage; which according to a guide have been replicated from the remains found, that sets the tone for a pre independence era experience. Part of the brick walkways have been preserved, while the rest, have been restored in the same pattern throughout the campus considering their role in complimenting the brick structures on the site. Also interesting to see were the surprisingly efficient drainage system design and beautiful memorials sprinkled over the site.

Part of the main Residency building is converted into a Museum housing a scaled model of the residency, lithograph, sketches and paintings on the first floor and an elaborate exploration into the Seige of Lucknow through scripts, weapons and paintings, in the basement. It is here in the basement of the once upon a time main Administrative office of a British colony, where you feel the spark of patriotism as you see and read about the mutiny and the sacrifices made by the mutineers who fought India’s First War of Independence. Though the mutiny was brutally suppressed, it inspired many more revolts, which we dedicate our independence to today. This is what gives The Residency, an iconic status in our history. No matter what you read or hear about the Revolt of 1857, it is incomplete till you visit the Residency where the standing structures define the might of the British, while the damage represent the effort of the freedom fighters.

Before I end this article, I would like to appreciate the effort of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in maintaining delicate ruins of our history and amplifying the story these ruins wish to offer. Also I would suggest the visitors to feel free to invade the privacy of couples, engrossed in PDA, if they happen to come in your way of living a day in Pre-Independent India.

Another piece of information to be shared is that this piece of literature was written in Indian Coffee House of Lucknow, which was established in 1958 and boasts of patrons like Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, Dr. Ram Manohar Lohia, Atal Bihari Bajpai, Acharya Narendra Dev, Chandra Shekhar Singh, Amrit Lal Nagar, etc. The place sure is inspiring and economic; the Black coffee isn’t bad either.

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PICTURES OF LUCKNOW

CHAI at CHARMINAR

  Struggling through the old city area of Hyderabad, I reached a point where I felt the whole of Hyderabad coming all together upon me..... the chit chat of local people in Hyderabadi Hindi coupled with the shrieking hawkers with a hint of  whispers by awestruck tourists create the perfect background score for this unique experience..... and just when I started thinking that I have seen it all, I saw the monumental Charminar standing in front of me. Every step I took towards it imbibed me all the more into its charm. And just as I reached this whole new world, the speakers started roaring "allah ho akhbar.....". Suddenly the entire place turned solemn and all I could see was the Charminar and the Mecca Masjid.

  

  As I walked ahead towards it, a distinct fragrance attracted me to one of the tea joints next to Charminar. Well, sipping Irani tea next to Charminar may not be a dream to any ordinary person, but once you have done it, your senses will keep reminding you to do it again and again. The haunting aroma of the badi patti blended with the amazing flavor of chotti patti seduced my taste buds in such a way that calling back miyan for another cup became formidable. Just as I kept piling empty tea cups on my table and crush the cigarette butt on the floor, oh yes you can smoke here without eyebrows being raised at you, I saw the antique clock embedded on the Charminar and as I kept staring at it, I eventually reached a different era. Sitting with my close friends, as the tea kept flowing, the conversations got endless and blame it on the Irani Chai, I just poured my heart out. My brain soothes, my body relaxes, my problems find solution and suddenly I forgot all the pain I had taken to reach this place, as I cherished every sip of this amazing tea.

  But here, it was not just the tea or the Charminar; it was the ambiance, the surrounding, the shining pearls, the fragrance of unique perfumes, the dimly lit endless corridors of the bazaar which blend among themselves to give me this unforgettable experience. Though all the flashy cafes claim that a lot can happen over a cup of coffee, the Irani chai at Charminar does deliver.

TUNE IN TO THIRUVAIYARU

I am neither a music buff nor a great fan of Classical music. As of Carnatic music, all I know is from my Class 6 CBSE text book, which said that Carnatic music is a form of Classical music played in southern part of India, especially Tamil Nadu. Still, I hop into a bus from Trichy to Tanjore, with a bunch of my friends to attend Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha, a Carnatic music fest in Thiruvaiyaru, near Tanjore.

The Aradhna is a ten day event, set in front of Shri Thiyagarajar Samadhi on the bank of river Cauvery in a small town called Thiruvaiyaru. This Carnatic Music festival attracts Carnatic singers, musicians and audience, belonging to all age groups, from all around the globe, especially Tamil Nadu.

As I start my journey, I don’t know what is attracting me to that place…… may be it is the craving for a new experience or something to write about or may be because my friends were making fun of the fact that I am going to attend a Carnatic music festival!  As of now, I am enjoying a comfortable bus journey in cool cloudy weather and the recently constructed Trichy Tanjore Highway. As we take a break at Tanjore to change bus, a crisp dosa and strong filter coffee welcomes us. Now with our enthusiasm fuelled with food, we proceed towards Ariyalur, on the way to which lies the town, Thiruvaiyaru.

As we walk towards the venue from the Thiruvaiyaru bus stand, loudspeakers playing the compositions being played at the Aradhna intimate us that we are going on the right way. Within no time we reach the Thiyagaraja Samadhi. The mandapam is covered with a canvas canopy, decorated with colorful frills on the inside. At one end of it is the Thiyagaraja Samadhi and on the other end is a stage, divided in two parts with a group of singers and musicians on each of them, playing alternately. I am told that a Carnatic Music concert is called a Kacheri, and here, two Kacheri’s were going simultaneously.   

First I visit the Samadhi to pray and then settle myself in the Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha to enjoy the Aradhna. This Kacheri, in particular, is dedicated to the ‘kritis’ by Shri Thiyagarajar and most of them are in Telugu! As a clueless visitor belonging to Gujarat, sitting in Carnatic music concert in Tamil Nadu, listening to Telugu compositions…… I looked around to realize one interesting thing about this concert. This is one event which attracts crowd from far and near, striking the common chord among them…… Music! The crowd here was not Shaivite or Vaishnavite, but just music lovers. Amazing to see how Music crossed the barriers of Caste & Creed, Cults & Sects, Male & Female, Language & Dialects, to bring one and all together. Surprised with what I just realized, I look back at the stage with a whole new perspective to appreciate this very Music. To be truthful, I am now enjoying it. Contrary to the notion I had about Carnatic music being calm and solemn, it’s vibrant!  The orchestra comprises of Mrudangam, Violin, Ghatam (a pot), Tambura and Morsing. But, the most impressive part is the voice of the singers. A well controlled voice with pitch modulating with every word in a range I have never heard before. Just as the singers close their eyes and tap their palm on thighs, music rises and a melodious voice sets the ambience, which cannot be described in words. The only words which could describe my state right now are ‘spell bound’!

   Since its time for us to go back, we take a walk along the bank of Cauveri in shallow water before we leave the place. Though water wiped off the sand from my feet, I know nothing can wipe the memories of Thiruvaiyaru from my mind. For me, something so unique and amazing has never been seen or heard before.

Kacheri

Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha

A WALK ALONG PAMBAN

THE PAMBAN BRIDGE (BASCULE PART)

THE NEW AND THE OLD PAMBAN

All the pain I had from the last night’s bumpy ride from Trichy to Rameshwaram went away once the strong breeze of fresh air brushed my face. After a strenuous effort, I open my eyes to see the heaven on earth. One of the most picturesque views I had ever seen in my entire life. Blue Ocean, rocky beach on one side and sandy on the other, green trees behind the beach, huts arranged along them in the most perfect manner possible and in front, the engineering marvel of the pre independence time, the Pamban Railway bridge. I am standing on the recently built vehicle traffic bridge along the Pamban Railway Bridge, which is also called Pamban Bridge. It bridges the Rameshwaram Island with the mainland of India, which is divided by Palk Strait.

The view of fishermen fishing, their boats dancing to the tune of the waves and prize catch shining like bronze medal in sun is something that capture my eyes for so long that I forget what made me come here. Suddenly, I hear a train’s whistle rising between the chorus of waves and then I turn my head to the Pamban railway bridge. An engineering masterpiece sculpted in steel, so amazing that it took my breath away as my eyes witnessed a train actually rolling over it.

Surprisingly this 93 years old railway bridge, constructed in 1914, is made of steel in world’s second most corrosive environment. Bridging a gap of 2.3 km., this bridge stood as the longest bridge in India till Bandra Worli Sealink recently surpassed it. The bridge is a cantilever bridge which accommodates a single broad gauge track. Not surprised? Well, the interesting thing is that still it stands a functional double leaf bascule bridge which facilitates the passing of ships under it by opening up in the centre from two sides, a feat that still remain a challenge to the world’s greatest bridge builders.

As I stand here admiring the shining steel wonder against the blue water, with a slice of juicy pineapple in my hand, a group of travelers get off their bus. Within no time I am surrounded by another bunch of awestruck admirers covering their mouth with their fingers as if trying to avoid a fish to pop into their open mouth. Well, I can’t blame them; it is something which will leave anyone spell bound. After a 45 minute conversation among my friends which only comprised of “whoooo….”, “amazing”, “breathtaking”, “superb” and few other words that came out of excitement but didn’t mean anything; I start walking back to the bus stand on the Rameshwaram side of the bridge. Though I walk back to keep up with my schedule, I just can’t resist looking back at Pamban for one more time.

PEN HUNT at PARRY'S

GEM & CO.

If you want a good fountain pen at an affordable price, just walk your way up to the corner stationary shop. If you want a great fountain pen, with your heart ready to loosen up your pocket, grab your car keys and drive to the nearest mall. But, if you want to buy a great fountain pen at an affordable price, plan a trip to Chennai and board a bus there with “BROADWAY” written in bold letters on its placard.

Fountain pen, especially, since long have been a passion to many a people and an identity to most of the Artists and Architects. Every drop of ink that flows through the shiny metal nib, expresses your thoughts and feelings on the paper. Every curve of script you write and every stroke of sketch you make is a conscious effort which your enthusiasm plans for you even before you remove the cap. Eventually, with every passing attempt, you get addicted to materialize your expressions on a paper and this is when you realize what a mere fountain pen can do to you!

Well, this very addiction bought me a bus ticket to Chennai along with a fellow connoisseur and a generous man who provided me with food, shelter and direction in the city. And thus began my “PEN HUNT”! Being a student of Architecture with a knack for fancy fountain pen, I often find myself admiring collections of exquisite fountain pens over the internet and this is where I found the address to my dream fountain pen collection, which read……… Oh God! I forgot the address ….. and so did my fellow pen raider! And yes, at this moment we were at Broadway Bus stand! All we knew was that it was in Parry’s area near Broadway and all we could make out from the vague recollection of its photograph on the internet was that it was taken from distance, thus we came to the conclusion that the shop was not in some alley. With this information, we began our final phase of pen hunt.

As we walked out of the Broadway bus stand, with peanuts in our hand and fountain pen in our mind, we were greeted by a huge crowd moving all around in a specific direction like ants!  But when we tried to join them, we were pushed out, but this didn’t discourage from our hunt. Just as I got an opportunity to raise my head, I read a shop address which said NSC Bose Road. Suddenly there was a click of flashback, as we recalled that Internet also pointed out NSC Bose as a part of the shop address. After a sigh of relief, came the very obvious question…… should we proceed on left or right hand side? So we all tossed a coin inside our head and a unanimous decision was taken…….Left!

The next two and a half hour was a long walk under bright sun in a crowded street and taking a sneak peek into the stationary stores along the road. For those Chennaites who are not aware, NSC Bose Road is a mine of stationary in Chennai. From pocket diaries to executive folders…. from use & throw pen to pen with warranty…. all could be found here at Parry’s. Anyways, browsing through the shops with eyes wide open, we came across a shop with a huge replica of a fountain pen hanging inside it. We bent backwards to read the board which said “PARRY PEN CORNER”. Assuming that it was the shop we were looking for, I exchanged a victory smile with my partner and a smirk with our rest of the companions who didn’t believe in us, and barged into the shop shocking the other customers. Looking at our tired but enthusiastic faces, the shopkeeper opened a few cases filled with GAMA pens and welcomed us. In a fraction of a second the pen caps started popping like soda, as we started inspecting the pens with a curious face. Though I and my fellow pen enthusiast are final year students, for those 20 minutes, we turned into kindergarten kids standing in a candy shop, delighting ourselves and annoying our rest of the tired company. Soon (though our company disagrees with this adverb) we picked the pens of our interest and started discussing them like some wine taster discussing their wine. The only things missing were monocles and money. Anyways, scratching our wallets yielded some money and pens were packed in envelopes. Though we stood victorious in our pursuit of pens, we did realize that another mission was on its way once we step out of the shop, “THE ATM HUNT AT PARRY’S”. Luckily our desperate eyes found an ATM across the road, so we took another sigh of relief and ordered for lime soda from one of the many petty shops along the road, knowing that companions had money to pay for it. Once the bubbles of sparkling water burst their energy into us, I and my friend took a stroll across the road to the ATM, just to read a board hanging over its knob saying “ATM not working”. All the recently gain energy was lost…. the stroll turned into a tedious effort of dragging our feet as we started crossing the road back to our rest of the company.

Just as we were about to reach the signal in the center of the road, my eyes caught a glance of a huge board on the top of a shop with “GEM & CO.” embossed on it. This was it! This was the very shop we were looking for! The shop on the internet! Within a blink of an eye, we found ourselves running towards it like a lady who just spotted a 50% off poster on the window of a boutique. Oh God! the excitement was back again as I threw a half burnt cigarette to enter the shop.

This shop was bigger than the previous one, had a better collection of pen and before anyone could stop me, it was Rachit in wonderland all over again. The shelves start sliding, the cases start opening, pen caps start popping and the next thing I know is that I am having the same old animated conversation and yet again sans the monocles and money. Pens were amazing, ranging from writing to sketching, antique to executive and from affordable to definitely not affordable. Luckily I found some emergency money in my travelling wallet and crossing the fingers praying that nothing goes wrong during our trip, I let my desire for pen take control over me. I bought myself a Rotring Calligraphy Pen and a Gama pen with a Sheaffer nib for fine writing, an addition to the collection of my most prized possession.

The most notable thing about these shops I visited, which distinguishes them from the mall and corner stationary store, is the service they provide. The person across the counter knows what he is selling and respects your price constraint. He would suggest you pen, let you check it and would also offer you tips for usage & maintenance of fountain pens, before he packs them in an envelope and write you a bill with a smile.

Anyways, once I paid the prize for my most prized possession, I obliged him with a smile, turned back with my head held high and walked out. I stood valiant in my PEN HUNT AT PARRY’S.