TUNE IN TO THIRUVAIYARU

I am neither a music buff nor a great fan of Classical music. As of Carnatic music, all I know is from my Class 6 CBSE text book, which said that Carnatic music is a form of Classical music played in southern part of India, especially Tamil Nadu. Still, I hop into a bus from Trichy to Tanjore, with a bunch of my friends to attend Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha, a Carnatic music fest in Thiruvaiyaru, near Tanjore.

The Aradhna is a ten day event, set in front of Shri Thiyagarajar Samadhi on the bank of river Cauvery in a small town called Thiruvaiyaru. This Carnatic Music festival attracts Carnatic singers, musicians and audience, belonging to all age groups, from all around the globe, especially Tamil Nadu.

As I start my journey, I don’t know what is attracting me to that place…… may be it is the craving for a new experience or something to write about or may be because my friends were making fun of the fact that I am going to attend a Carnatic music festival!  As of now, I am enjoying a comfortable bus journey in cool cloudy weather and the recently constructed Trichy Tanjore Highway. As we take a break at Tanjore to change bus, a crisp dosa and strong filter coffee welcomes us. Now with our enthusiasm fuelled with food, we proceed towards Ariyalur, on the way to which lies the town, Thiruvaiyaru.

As we walk towards the venue from the Thiruvaiyaru bus stand, loudspeakers playing the compositions being played at the Aradhna intimate us that we are going on the right way. Within no time we reach the Thiyagaraja Samadhi. The mandapam is covered with a canvas canopy, decorated with colorful frills on the inside. At one end of it is the Thiyagaraja Samadhi and on the other end is a stage, divided in two parts with a group of singers and musicians on each of them, playing alternately. I am told that a Carnatic Music concert is called a Kacheri, and here, two Kacheri’s were going simultaneously.   

First I visit the Samadhi to pray and then settle myself in the Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha to enjoy the Aradhna. This Kacheri, in particular, is dedicated to the ‘kritis’ by Shri Thiyagarajar and most of them are in Telugu! As a clueless visitor belonging to Gujarat, sitting in Carnatic music concert in Tamil Nadu, listening to Telugu compositions…… I looked around to realize one interesting thing about this concert. This is one event which attracts crowd from far and near, striking the common chord among them…… Music! The crowd here was not Shaivite or Vaishnavite, but just music lovers. Amazing to see how Music crossed the barriers of Caste & Creed, Cults & Sects, Male & Female, Language & Dialects, to bring one and all together. Surprised with what I just realized, I look back at the stage with a whole new perspective to appreciate this very Music. To be truthful, I am now enjoying it. Contrary to the notion I had about Carnatic music being calm and solemn, it’s vibrant!  The orchestra comprises of Mrudangam, Violin, Ghatam (a pot), Tambura and Morsing. But, the most impressive part is the voice of the singers. A well controlled voice with pitch modulating with every word in a range I have never heard before. Just as the singers close their eyes and tap their palm on thighs, music rises and a melodious voice sets the ambience, which cannot be described in words. The only words which could describe my state right now are ‘spell bound’!

   Since its time for us to go back, we take a walk along the bank of Cauveri in shallow water before we leave the place. Though water wiped off the sand from my feet, I know nothing can wipe the memories of Thiruvaiyaru from my mind. For me, something so unique and amazing has never been seen or heard before.

Kacheri

Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha

A WALK ALONG PAMBAN

THE PAMBAN BRIDGE (BASCULE PART)

THE NEW AND THE OLD PAMBAN

All the pain I had from the last night’s bumpy ride from Trichy to Rameshwaram went away once the strong breeze of fresh air brushed my face. After a strenuous effort, I open my eyes to see the heaven on earth. One of the most picturesque views I had ever seen in my entire life. Blue Ocean, rocky beach on one side and sandy on the other, green trees behind the beach, huts arranged along them in the most perfect manner possible and in front, the engineering marvel of the pre independence time, the Pamban Railway bridge. I am standing on the recently built vehicle traffic bridge along the Pamban Railway Bridge, which is also called Pamban Bridge. It bridges the Rameshwaram Island with the mainland of India, which is divided by Palk Strait.

The view of fishermen fishing, their boats dancing to the tune of the waves and prize catch shining like bronze medal in sun is something that capture my eyes for so long that I forget what made me come here. Suddenly, I hear a train’s whistle rising between the chorus of waves and then I turn my head to the Pamban railway bridge. An engineering masterpiece sculpted in steel, so amazing that it took my breath away as my eyes witnessed a train actually rolling over it.

Surprisingly this 93 years old railway bridge, constructed in 1914, is made of steel in world’s second most corrosive environment. Bridging a gap of 2.3 km., this bridge stood as the longest bridge in India till Bandra Worli Sealink recently surpassed it. The bridge is a cantilever bridge which accommodates a single broad gauge track. Not surprised? Well, the interesting thing is that still it stands a functional double leaf bascule bridge which facilitates the passing of ships under it by opening up in the centre from two sides, a feat that still remain a challenge to the world’s greatest bridge builders.

As I stand here admiring the shining steel wonder against the blue water, with a slice of juicy pineapple in my hand, a group of travelers get off their bus. Within no time I am surrounded by another bunch of awestruck admirers covering their mouth with their fingers as if trying to avoid a fish to pop into their open mouth. Well, I can’t blame them; it is something which will leave anyone spell bound. After a 45 minute conversation among my friends which only comprised of “whoooo….”, “amazing”, “breathtaking”, “superb” and few other words that came out of excitement but didn’t mean anything; I start walking back to the bus stand on the Rameshwaram side of the bridge. Though I walk back to keep up with my schedule, I just can’t resist looking back at Pamban for one more time.