Wednesday 23 March 2011

TUNE IN TO THIRUVAIYARU


I am neither a music buff nor a great fan of Classical music. As of Carnatic music, all I know is from my Class 6 CBSE text book, which said that Carnatic music is a form of Classical music played in southern part of India, especially Tamil Nadu. Still, I hop into a bus from Trichy to Tanjore, with a bunch of my friends to attend Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha, a Carnatic music fest in Thiruvaiyaru, near Tanjore.
The Aradhna is a ten day event, set in front of Shri Thiyagarajar Samadhi on the bank of river Cauvery in a small town called Thiruvaiyaru. This Carnatic Music festival attracts Carnatic singers, musicians and audience, belonging to all age groups, from all around the globe, especially Tamil Nadu.
As I start my journey, I don’t know what is attracting me to that place…… may be it is the craving for a new experience or something to write about or may be because my friends were making fun of the fact that I am going to attend a Carnatic music festival!  As of now, I am enjoying a comfortable bus journey in cool cloudy weather and the recently constructed Trichy Tanjore Highway. As we take a break at Tanjore to change bus, a crisp dosa and strong filter coffee welcomes us. Now with our enthusiasm fuelled with food, we proceed towards Ariyalur, on the way to which lies the town, Thiruvaiyaru.
As we walk towards the venue from the Thiruvaiyaru bus stand, loudspeakers playing the compositions being played at the Aradhna intimate us that we are going on the right way. Within no time we reach the Thiyagaraja Samadhi. The mandapam is covered with a canvas canopy, decorated with colorful frills on the inside. At one end of it is the Thiyagaraja Samadhi and on the other end is a stage, divided in two parts with a group of singers and musicians on each of them, playing alternately. I am told that a Carnatic Music concert is called a Kacheri, and here, two Kacheri’s were going simultaneously.   
First I visit the Samadhi to pray and then settle myself in the Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha to enjoy the Aradhna. This Kacheri, in particular, is dedicated to the ‘kritis’ by Shri Thiyagarajar and most of them are in Telugu! As a clueless visitor belonging to Gujarat, sitting in Carnatic music concert in Tamil Nadu, listening to Telugu compositions…… I looked around to realize one interesting thing about this concert. This is one event which attracts crowd from far and near, striking the common chord among them…… Music! The crowd here was not Shaivite or Vaishnavite, but just music lovers. Amazing to see how Music crossed the barriers of Caste & Creed, Cults & Sects, Male & Female, Language & Dialects, to bring one and all together. Surprised with what I just realized, I look back at the stage with a whole new perspective to appreciate this very Music. To be truthful, I am now enjoying it. Contrary to the notion I had about Carnatic music being calm and solemn, it’s vibrant!  The orchestra comprises of Mrudangam, Violin, Ghatam (a pot), Tambura and Morsing. But, the most impressive part is the voice of the singers. A well controlled voice with pitch modulating with every word in a range I have never heard before. Just as the singers close their eyes and tap their palm on thighs, music rises and a melodious voice sets the ambience, which cannot be described in words. The only words which could describe my state right now are ‘spell bound’!
   Since its time for us to go back, we take a walk along the bank of Cauveri in shallow water before we leave the place. Though water wiped off the sand from my feet, I know nothing can wipe the memories of Thiruvaiyaru from my mind. For me, something so unique and amazing has never been seen or heard before.






Kacheri
Shri Thiyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha

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